When considering the transformation of a rough diamond into a polished gemstone, many people confuse the term “cut” with “shape”.

The cut of a diamond refers to the how many facets there are in the finished gemstone and how they are proportioned. The skill and precision of the faceting affects the fire and sparkle of a gemstone, making it look dull or flash with fire. The most common cuts are Round Brilliant, Princess, Oval, Baguette, Trillion and Marquise.

The shape of a diamond is the overall outline of the gemstone. Whilst it is determined to a very large extent by the proportions of the faceting of a particular cut, the two terms are not interchangeable. Different shapes have different proportions and dimensions which will suggest a specific way of faceting the gemstone for best appearance, depending on the particular diamond size and shape.

Whilst the actual cut of the diamond will be dictated by the size and proportions of the diamond rough, the finished shape is often decided by the diamond cutter. This is because the cutter must consider the initial shape of the raw stone and any flaws that must be removed.

For example, one of the most common cuts of all is the Round Brilliant cut. In this cut the 57 facets and proportions of the finished gemstone are mathematically calculated for optical brilliance so that the finished diamond has large amounts of brilliance and internal fire. However, if a diamond rough lends itself to this particular cut but it has a highly localised flaw which cannot be masked by clarity enhancement, than the diamond cutter may be able to shape the Round Brilliant into a Heart shape.

Similarly, diamond roughs which favour the Oval cut and the Marquise cut in different areas can be expertly shaped into Pear shapes.

Because the standard of the cut is of exceptional importance in making a diamond valuable, diamond cutters can become very skilled. Most common cuts can be improved for individual gemstones, by trimming or rounding corners, or by adding extra facets or even by cleaving an entire area of the diamond. In fact some jewelers become so closely associated with their specialised cuts that they license it under a brand name. Examples of these cuts are Assher, Crisscross, Lily, Hearts on Fire and Leo.

Whilst these specialised cuts often look extremely good in engagement rings, you should bear in mind that they are made much more expensive because of the brand name and because more of the rough diamond is lost in the cutting process. And that is something to bear in mind when buying a diamond engagement ring!

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